![]() ? At least 17 hours have elapsed since the last drive cycle met the Conditions for Running. Therefore, performing a visual inspection prior to running the EVAP test may prevent having to repeat the drive cycle. A failed or aborted diagnostic will require the vehicle to cool down in order to meet the enable criteria for another drive cycle. ![]() Once the diagnostics have passed during the third drive cycle, the EVAP I/M System Status display will be updated to YES. Then, the diagnostics will run again during the next drive cycle in which the conditions for running are met. If the diagnostics pass during one drive cycle, seventeen hours must elapse, regardless of whether the vehicle is driven or not. The readiness diagnostics complete when all DTCs comprising the diagnostics run and pass, or any DTC comprising the diagnostics illuminates the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL). The EVAP I/M System Status display indicates whether or not the control module has completed the readiness diagnostics. ![]() The procedure may be used to set the EVAP I/M System Status display on the scan tool to YES. The purpose of this procedure is to satisfy the enable criteria necessary to execute inspection/maintenance (I/M) readiness diagnostics for the Evaporative Emission (EVAP) System. The only thing that the dealer will tell me is to "drive the car more.Inspection/Maintenance Evaporative Emission System Set Yes, it may be a brand new car, but the emissions system still has to be fully functional before it'll pass CA smog (a requirement, since I purchased the car out of state).Īs far as the dealer comment, it's not a warranty issue. So, if I can see for myself whether it will pass or not, why would I bother taking the time or wasting the money to have them tell me the same thing? However, I do have the ability to scan my car and I can verify whether it will pass or not. I'm not trying to prove anything on my own. If the car "meets CA emissions" then it should be fine and get it checked or take it to the dealer and have them check it (under warranty). To add to this, it looks like you have a BRAND NEW car. Seems to me like you're spinning your wheels on something that you could just have taken care of by a professional. Is it really a big deal if it fails, shows up on a carfax, gets fixed, and shows up on a carfax. What are you trying to prove on your own? That it's good? You still have to get it smog checked so why not just get it checked by an "expert". I just did this (after the car sat for 4 hours) and it's still not showing ready. The EVAP monitor should be complete.ĭoes the O2 system check have to be performed on a cold start? Also, do these two sequences have to be ran one after the other? Start the engine and idle for four minutes, then drive in stop-and-go traffic for five minutes using smooth accelerations and decelerations. ![]() The second part runs after the vehicle has sit for 8 or more hours (cold soak) without being driven. The first part runs after idling for five minutes, then driving at 30 to 45 mph for two minutes (fuel tank must be half to 85 percent full). You could try this for the evap though.There are two-parts to this test. This will complete the second half of the HEGO monitor that checks the responsiveness of the O2 sensors. After this, turn the A/C and defroster off, then accelerate at half throttle to 55 mph and hold at a steady 55 mph for three minutes. The first part of the HEGO monitor runs after idling the engine for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on. You should still pass smog if evap isn't ready, all you need to take care of is the O2 driving monitor.
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